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Topic ClosedLithium Battery install ?

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podwerkz View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Lithium Battery install ?
    Posted: 22 Oct 2019 at 5:21pm
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

The question now at hand is how to address the question upon both possible choices how charging form the TV is involved. Will it be compensated accordingly or do I still need to dis-connect?

How shall I ask this?


With lithium iron batteries you need a compatible converter charger, a compatible solar controller, (if using solar) and a compatible B2B charger if you plan to charge lithium from your tow vehicle. (do not believe the marketing about lifepo4 being drop-in replacements...they kinda are but they kinda aren't. Like 'unlimited' cellular data)

You might have missed the part where I said, open up that wallet. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2019 at 5:23pm
Since the unit that comes with the RPod is a 55A unit, I gave the number for the equivalent PD drop-in replacement. The 'Pod's AC circuitry is 30A, but the DC side is not the same. The 55A output is DC which is over 300A DC. The converter does not draw nearly that in AC amperage to output the 55A DC. Your EE friend should be able to explain this better than I can.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2019 at 9:39pm
Originally posted by StephenH

Since the unit that comes with the RPod is a 55A unit, I gave the number for the equivalent PD drop-in replacement. The 'Pod's AC circuitry is 30A, but the DC side is not the same. The 55A output is DC which is over 300A DC. The converter does not draw nearly that in AC amperage to output the 55A DC. Your EE friend should be able to explain this better than I can. 
Other way around Stephen. 55 amps DC pulls about 5.5 amps on the AC side. (that is an approximation)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2019 at 10:11pm
Originally posted by GlueGuy

Originally posted by StephenH

Since the unit that comes with the RPod is a 55A unit, I gave the number for the equivalent PD drop-in replacement. The 'Pod's AC circuitry is 30A, but the DC side is not the same. The 55A output is DC which is over 300A DC. The converter does not draw nearly that in AC amperage to output the 55A DC. Your EE friend should be able to explain this better than I can. 
Other way around Stephen. 55 amps DC pulls about 5.5 amps on the AC side. (that is an approximation)

Thanks. I messed up my calculations when I wrote that. You said what I meant to say. I was thinking that if the 55A were the 120V AC, it would be over 300A DC. It is better to put it in terms of what the actual AC draw is to generate the 55A (maximum) DC output.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 7:54am
Originally posted by StephenH

Originally posted by GlueGuy

Originally posted by StephenH

Since the unit that comes with the RPod is a 55A unit, I gave the number for the equivalent PD drop-in replacement. The 'Pod's AC circuitry is 30A, but the DC side is not the same. The 55A output is DC which is over 300A DC. The converter does not draw nearly that in AC amperage to output the 55A DC. Your EE friend should be able to explain this better than I can. 
Other way around Stephen. 55 amps DC pulls about 5.5 amps on the AC side. (that is an approximation)

Thanks. I messed up my calculations when I wrote that. You said what I meant to say. I was thinking that if the 55A were the 120V AC, it would be over 300A DC. It is better to put it in terms of what the actual AC draw is to generate the 55A (maximum) DC output.

Guess have two different WFCO's. Mine's a 35a max. WF8735

My max DC out (by fused circuit) is only 97.5a (dc) or 1219 watts or <11a (ac). These numbers exclude the reverse polarity fuse. Of course there is the potential of 336a DC, yet don't see that ever happening. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 9:58am
Is that last DC fuse the input from the battery? 40a fuse?

I always thought it was the reverse polarity fuse, yet now wondering..
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 10:16am
Yeah mine has the 35a WFCO. Works fine for the r-pod 171...no slide...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 10:52am
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

Is that last DC fuse the input from the battery? 40a fuse?

I always thought it was the reverse polarity fuse, yet now wondering..
The two 40A fuses (behind the front panel) are the reverse polarity protection fuses. You may need to remove the front panel to see them. On mine, they sit to the left of the column of circuit fuses. In the column of fuses, the last (bottom) 30A fuse in mine is for the slide-out motor.

Edit: Since yours is a different model, I would look it up on the WFCO site to get a diagram that shows the location of the reverse polarity protection fuses.

Another edit: I looked and (now that I looked at the correct model), the bottom two fuses should be your reverse polarity protection fuses.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1235230/Wfco-Wf-8735p.html?page=3#manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 2:49pm
Originally posted by StephenH

Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

Is that last DC fuse the input from the battery? 40a fuse?

I always thought it was the reverse polarity fuse, yet now wondering..
The two 40A fuses (behind the front panel) are the reverse polarity protection fuses. You may need to remove the front panel to see them. On mine, they sit to the left of the column of circuit fuses. In the column of fuses, the last (bottom) 30A fuse in mine is for the slide-out motor.

Edit: Since yours is a different model, I would look it up on the WFCO site to get a diagram that shows the location of the reverse polarity protection fuses.

Another edit: I looked and (now that I looked at the correct model), the bottom two fuses should be your reverse polarity protection fuses.


Thank you for the effort. 



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2019 at 8:13am
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

The question now at hand is how to address the question upon both possible choices how charging form the TV is involved. Will it be compensated accordingly or do I still need to dis-connect?

How shall I ask this?


Neither of those choices have anything to do with tow vehicle charging, they are ac source chargers only. If you want to do tow vehicle charging of a Li battery you will need another device. Here is one for example that provides a regulated dc output for Li battery charging and has dual inputs, one for solar and one for the TV 12V supply.


Yep, its expensive. The question is, do you really need to convert all three charging sources (TV, grid, and solar) or can you do with one or two? 

One point here is that Li battery charging is actually much less complex than PbA battery charging. There is no need for a complex multistage charging sequence. You just need to stay below the max charging voltage for your specific battery, which a dc to dc converter providing a regulated output voltage can do. But it is critical that you do that, there can be serious consequences (eg, fires) if you don't. 

There are any number of folks that have converted to Li house batteries in their RV's, just not so much in rPods. But that doesn't matter, the electrons don't care what kind of RV it is. A Google search will bring up lots of hits for this conversion.

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