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StephenH ![]() podders Helping podders - pHp ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6425 |
![]() Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 10:07pm |
Nice job! One of these days I'll get around to that also. Right now, I am in the middle of a table modification that will also include a cushion modification for the dinette in our 179. I am working on table supports since I removed the swiveling table legs and installed two posts. I have two brackets made and am waiting for the finish to dry so I can mount them to hold the table when the legs are removed. The table along with the ottomans will provide a base for the cushion
I may build a sliding platform also, but haven't gotten that far yet. When I get that done with the table, I will post pictures in my mods. Cushions will come shortly after as soon as I can get to it. My goal is to have it done for a trip out west in May/June.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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marwayne ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 Oct 2011 Location: Edmonton AB Can Online Status: Offline Posts: 1003 |
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Good on you. I didn't have that problem I put the pump at the bottom and instead of sucking the pump is pushing the water, Hottest water is always at top.
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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
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voisj ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 19 Jul 2016 Location: San Luis Obispo Online Status: Offline Posts: 471 |
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Finished up the hot water heat exchanger and finally got it working perfect. (Thanks Again Marwayne)
I was having a problem with air in the lines that was causing the pump to to whine intermittently and lots of gurgling. Turned out the hot water heater always has some air near the top and all I had to do was swap the lines so the pump draws from the bottom. Uses way less power than the furnace and is much quieter. I made a video explaining the system, ![]() ![]() ![]() Also installed electronic igniters for the stove.
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AZ Pete ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 01 Jul 2017 Location: AZ Online Status: Offline Posts: 5 |
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Thanks for sharing, we bought a 180, and will be referring to this for ideas
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trjeep ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Oct 2017 Location: East Tennessee Online Status: Offline Posts: 5 |
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Thanks for the info John. I understand it now.
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Tony
2017 RP180 |
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voisj ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 19 Jul 2016 Location: San Luis Obispo Online Status: Offline Posts: 471 |
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MIK,
I put a level on it and it's 1/4" out of level, and if i push down on the wall side it levels out. These things are not the most stable units and the table will wiggle if bumped. Since we don't use it for sleeping, I may add a cleat to the wall and just screw it down so it doesn't wiggle at all. Life is good, John
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MIK ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 Jul 2017 Location: MA Online Status: Offline Posts: 42 |
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Wouldn't that make the table unbalanced and lean away from the wall?
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2018 R-Pod 180
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voisj ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 19 Jul 2016 Location: San Luis Obispo Online Status: Offline Posts: 471 |
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MIK,
The parts were bought at my local RV place, top and bottom Bases $6 each ,post was $8 The table will wobble if hit hard, I centered the post 1/2" towards the wall and put felt bumpers on the table edge so it was more stable. After a year i think i need to move the top socket another 1/2" as it is starting to move a little more. One thing I would do different is not use the flush mount socket on the bottom, Use the surface mount one. There is a floor joist that i took a 1/2 inch curved slice out of, not horrible, but not the best. You could just move the socket 1" towards the back and the skinnier person sits there. but really the surface mount one does the same thing. The Bases just screw into the and top and floor, 1/2 hour job at most. Could get them here (pictures of the parts.) Life is good, John
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voisj ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 19 Jul 2016 Location: San Luis Obispo Online Status: Offline Posts: 471 |
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trjeep,
There are two 3/4" angle iron pieces, one below the drawers at the front edge and one above, they both are screwed to the back of the face frame and drawerbox to support the center drawer framing between the drawers,(red arrow) and to strengthen the face frame which you cut big holes in. The one above goes on top of the plywood from seat to refer wall at the front edge (red arrow) and is screwed to the face frame and through wood on both sides of the drawers and platform frame. My thought here is if i jump on the bed over the opening,(could happen),I didn't want it to collapse. The one below replaces this piece (yellow arrow), to better support this piece again (red arrow). What I was trying to achieve was a good way to attach the center 2 1x's, (red arrow) to the piece under, (yellow arrow) to both support it and keep it square, and angle iron fit the job. Because it also screws to the faceframe and the drawer framing, And it opens up the opening underneath by 2.5 " Here is a picture of the faceframe with top angle iron attached to the back, and the 4" piece I attached to the end ![]() and the angle iron under that replaces the 2 1/2" piece of wood. ![]() If the angle iron under piece is to much bother you could just leave the stock piece in place and maybe add a block to tie things all together. Life is good, John
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MIK ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 Jul 2017 Location: MA Online Status: Offline Posts: 42 |
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I know it is a relatively simple mod, but can you post more details on what parts you had to buy, and closeup pictures of the installation. How stable is the table when in use? Did you put any additional support on the wall? |
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2018 R-Pod 180
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