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Joined: 14 Sep 2015
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: No power
    Posted: 02 Sep 2016 at 10:53am
Are you hooked up to a 30 amp connection or are you just running from an outside outlet from your house.  That is how we have to hook up and occasionally we kick the GFI for our house which also runs the outside outlet.  If you aren't getting any power anywhere, that could be your problem. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2016 at 10:13am
Thank you, I will check them.
Dawg Lady
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2016 at 10:10am
If you are hooked up to shore power all your light should be working off the converter and also be charging your battery, if you checked the breakers than I would check the converter fuses they are the 40a fuses.They may have blown one when they were working on your slide out.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 10:43am
Thanks so much!!
Dawg Lady
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 10:26am
That would be my suspicion. A multimeter (sometimes available for free from Harbor Freight with other purchase) is handy to help diagnose things like this. That is also why I suggested checking the two 40A fuses.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 10:08am
Thanks so much for replies. If I am understanding the answers correctly I could still have a problem with converter. I have battery charger still connected with slow charge and battery is half charged but everything is running now. When it gets fully charged and I disconnect it and camper is still connected with house power if battery doesn't stay fully charged there is a problem with converter, is that correct?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 9:52am
Not surprising that the battery is dead after sitting on a dealer's lot. There is a small constant load, primarily the propane/CO detector, that will discharge the battery over a few weeks time. But the onboard converter should run the camper and recharge the battery when plugged in. Check your house circuit and the two 40A fuses in the converter. Check the battery voltage while being charged by the converter. A battery under charge should read in excess of 13 volts. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 9:26am
That is another reason to install a battery cut-off switch. The battery should not have been connected for 3 weeks without power to keep it from being depleted. Much of the R-Pod does operate on 12V power. The lights, for example, are 12V. They will not work if there is no 12V power available. The refrigerator's control panel and the LP leak/CO detector constantly draw power which, while small, will deplete your battery. The converter should have started supplying the 12V power when you plugged the R-Pod in to shore power. The converter should also have started charging the battery. If it is not charging the battery, check the two 40A fuses in the panel. If you remove them, you should be able to see whether the metal bridge between the two legs is intact (fuse is good) or not (fuse is bad). If you have a multimeter, you could also check for continuity between the two legs using the ohm meter part of the multimeter if you can't tell visually.



StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 8:49am
Well, it seems sitting at repair shop for 3 weeks the battery was depleted and causing the problem. I hooked up to battery charger last night and this morning all is working. I thought when hooked up to shore power it did not pull from battery but apparently it does. This newbie is slowly learning a lot of things to be aware of. Thanks for all the help and maybe this will help another newbie if they have this happen.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 10:07pm
Check the GFCI outlet (the one with the little red light/button) if all else fails.  Or check it first.  It controls every other 110 outlet in the pod, including the ones the fridge and microwave plug into.  If it's flipped everything is off. 

Sometimes those things seem to flip on a whim.  Just resetting it may fix everything until next time, but as with anytime a breaker flips, always look for the cause.

Sometimes GFCI things just quit and have to be replaced.  That happened to me a year ago when we were at the Outer Banks.  Fortunately the Ace Hardware had a full selection of replacements for under $10 or $15.

TT
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