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Topic ClosedFirst time R-Pod owner needing some help
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Joined: 22 Sep 2011
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Posts: 1088 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: First time R-Pod owner needing some help
    Posted: 11 Dec 2020 at 9:18pm
+1 to mjlrpod
grease the hitch/bar connection but not the bar to l bracket connection
making noise lets you know it is working properly
Vann
note-I also use a lithium spray lube on the trailer ball prior to hooking up

Vann & Laura 2015 RPod 179
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Joined: 27 Sep 2016
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Posts: 1221 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2020 at 2:37pm
I grease the hitch connections, but never the the slide plates that the spring bars ride on. Greasing that would defeat the sway control. Not very many things are recommended that you let dry metal rub together, but the spring bars are one thing that is. 
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Posts: 67 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2020 at 12:34pm
Quick question. When my WDH was installed the dealer said not to lubricate the joints, particularly where the bars attach to the trailer frame. However, the manual says to put grease on the joints where the bars connect to the hitch itself. This would allow them to move freely in and out when attaching and detaching. What do you recommend for lubricating the WDH.
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Posts: 2707 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2020 at 11:37am
+1
That's the way we do it. Crank up the connected combo far enough, and the spring bars just swing into position. No pry bar needed. We do the same thing when we disconnect.
bp
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Posts: 1221 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2020 at 10:38am
Originally posted by offgrid

Releasing the energy stored in the wdh bar tension can be intimidating, there is of necessity hundreds of lbs of force there. Best thing is to reverse the hitching up process, first crank up the Jack with the ball still in to relieve most of the tension, release the bars, then crank down, release the hitch, then back up to pull away. Takes slightly longer but it’s safer and less stressful.

And the opposite way to hitch up. First lower onto the ball and lock it on, then raise the jack a few inches, lifting the back end of the tow vehicle. Installing the spring bars will require no effort at all if you raised it enough.  This also proves that you are completely connected to the tow vehicle as well. Don't want to find out the hard way you weren't actually clamped to the ball. 
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2020 at 8:27am
Releasing the energy stored in the wdh bar tension can be intimidating, there is of necessity hundreds of lbs of force there. Best thing is to reverse the hitching up process, first crank up the Jack with the ball still in to relieve most of the tension, release the bars, then crank down, release the hitch, then back up to pull away. Takes slightly longer but it’s safer and less stressful.
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Posts: 30 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2020 at 12:13pm
Thank you EchoGale for your response and the link to the You-Tube video.  I appreciate it! As I said to offgrid....I can't wait until I have done it enough times that I am not intimidated by it. Smile
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Posts: 30 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2020 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by EchoGale

Like you, I've been the beneficiary of offgrid's wisdom many times here.  :)  

In the meantime, I've also learned a lot on youtube (and often its helpful too see the explanation.) Here's one video, I think, on your WDH  https://youtu.be/d8ZRiJ-8i7w
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Posts: 30 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2020 at 12:09pm
Thank you so much offgrid for taking the time to reply!!  I can't wait until I have done this enough times that it doesn't seem intimidating.  Smile
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Posts: 30 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2020 at 12:07pm
Originally posted by offgrid

I think I have the same hitch. Anyhow here’s what I do
Get your hitch parts out, clean off any grit form the mating surfaces and apply some grease.
Jack the trailer, back the TV, drop the hitch in the ball and connect.
Jack up again which will lift the Highlander and trailer a little. That will reduce the tension when you install the wdh bars.
Install a bar on the hitch. That seems a little awkward the first time, you have to start with the bar out about 90 degrees and rotated so the bottom of the bar hitch end drops into the hole, then the top, then swung the bar in.
Hook up the chain at the link you want to use (you’ll need to memorize and count links from now on).
Use the levering tube to rotate the chain attachment up and slide in the retaining clip.
Be sure that the loose chain is not blocking the chain from moving around in the chain attachment, which it will do when you turn.
Repeat for the other side.
Lower and stow jack.
Now attach the friction bar or bars. Thy can only go on one way, Pop the clips in and adjust the amount of friction you want with the levers.
Attach safety chains crisscrossed.
Attach breakaway cable, making sure it doesn’t drag and will pull the pin before the safety chains reach their full length.
Connect the 7 way making sure it doesn’t drag and doesn’t get hung up. Pull on it a bit to be sure it is properly latched in.
Done,

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